Just over eight years ago I was a 21 year old living in Essex, I had grown up in Essex but always holidayed in North Devon and then eventually Holidayed in Cornwall too. I loved the beach and the lifestyle down here and with my braided hair, tattoo's and piercings I felt slightly more accepted in Cornwall then on the streets of Essex, where board shorts and flip flops were not the attire for the high street.
When I was just 18 I took my first ever surf lessons on a camping weekend with my boyfriend and some school friends from Essex in Croyde at the Surf South West school on Croyde beach. I loved it, I was terrible, I could barely stand up on the board but I was hooked, After this I bought myself an indestructible NSP surfboard and came to Cornwall whenever I could to get in the water. I then bought myself a classic Volkswagen Beetle and continued to live in Essex taking my board and my Beetle down to Cornwall to surf whenever I could afford to.
But then riding white water was getting to easy and I was getting bored and wanting to push myself further. Then began the next step of learning to surf. I decided that if I wanted to get better at surfing then treating myself to my own 'real' surf board was the next step. I bought a custard point surfboard a 7ft 8 board and I've called him Lord. Lord of the Boards, he is beautiful and gave me a new wave of confidence. The board was lighter to paddle and instantly I was loving the board and riding waves but again I was only riding white water and needing to progress.